Case Study

Exploring the Potentials and Futures of Natural Dyeing

Exploring the Potentials and Futures of Natural Dyeing

By Dr Ghada Soliman and Dr Laura Pottinger

With growing recognition of the negative impacts of textile production and consumption, natural dyeing is gathering significant interest as a potentially viable, eco-friendly and captivating alternative to synthetic dyes. This piece outlines a recent collaboration between Woven, Stitched Up, and the University of Manchester exploring the role of natural dyeing in sustainable textile production, as well as its potential impacts on community well-being and environmental stewardship.

Traditional dyeing methods often rely on synthetic dyes, which can be harmful to both the environment and human health. Synthetic dyes are known to cause water pollution, toxic waste, and adverse health effects for workers in the dyeing industry. In contrast, natural dyes, derived from plants, minerals, and other organic sources could offer a sustainable and health-conscious alternative.

In May 2024, Woven, Stitched Up and researchers at the University of Manchester held an online discussion event – Why natural dye? – and two days of hands-on practical dyeing workshops – To Dye For! – at the WOW Festival, Manchester. The idea for these events emerged from our shared interests in natural dyes and a recognition of the critical need to address the environmental and social impacts of textile production.

WOVEN in Kirklees is a biennial festival that works with communities across Kirklees to explore the areas rich textile heritage and its innovative futures. WOVEN is a Kirklees Council initiative but owned by the communities of Kirklees. Stitched Up is a not-for-profit Community Benefit Society inspiring communities across Greater Manchester to take action on sustainable fashion via a public programme of sewing, mending and upcycling workshops, as well as volunteering opportunities and events like talks and film screenings. 

Both events brought together textile artists, academic researchers, and community organisations to examine role of natural dyeing in sustainable textile production and its potential impacts on community well-being and environmental stewardship. By offering practical opportunities to try out a range of colourful and captivating techniques we also hoped to galvanise public interest in the fascinating world of traditional, botanical dyeing and printing.

Why natural dye? An interactive, online event

The project kicked off with an interactive online discussion event that brought together contributors from diverse fields to discuss the myriad potentials and challenges of natural dyeing. The event was chaired by Dr Laura Pottinger, whose research in Geography explores natural dyeing and slow making, and Dr Ghada Soliman from the University of Manchester. It featured speakers working with botanical colours in a variety of innovative ways, including screen-printing, planting community dye gardens, and experimenting with biomaterials. This diversity of perspectives prompted a fascinating, multidisciplinary dialogue around the potentials, futures and challenges of natural dyeing and how it might contribute to sustainable practices while fostering community engagement and individual well-being.

The online discussion began with an enlightening presentation by Dr Jane Howard. Jane is an artist, educator and practice based researcher with a strong foundation in textiles who has been designing and delivering creative workshops with communities for over 20 years. Jane’s art practice and research are focused on sculptural textiles and mixed media pieces that are inspired by the landscape, history and folklore of both Yorkshire and the Orkney islands. Jane shared details of her current work which is focused on dyeing with woad, a plant that has traditionally been used to create blue colours on fabric in the UK.

Jane also introduced Growing Colour Together, a project and movement led by WOVEN  with the ambition of creating a district-wide, natural-dye, colour garden. Jane has been an integral part of this project, which encourages Kirklees residents to grow a colour garden, try natural dyeing and learn about the environmental implications of synthetic dyes. Jane was one of 7 artists in residency in Kirklees from January to June 2023 working with communities in Dewsbury to develop their own natural dye collaborative art work for the WOVEN festival as part of the Growing Colour Together programme, which was made possible with the support from the University of Huddersfield and funding from Arts Council England.

Next, we heard from textile artist and printmaker Nell Smith who works from a studio at Hot Bed Press in Salford. An interest in sustainability, the environment and nature have led her to carefully consider the materials she uses within her work. Her most recent collection, ‘Chroma’, is the culmination of an 8 month Arts Council funded research project exploring natural dyes and pigments for screen-printing. This form of printing involves using a mesh screen to transfer colour onto fabric, and Nell has used this technique to create intricate, layered and vibrant designs. Nell spoke about how her experiments with natural colour had changed both her print making practice, and also her relationship with local places and plants through foraging for materials. She also touched on some of the tensions of producing art works for sale that have been created with natural dyes, given their propensity to fade with time and exposure to light.

The online event also featured academic researcher and innovator in biomaterials Dr Jane Wood. Jane is a lecturer in textile and fashion technology at the University of Manchester who has many years of experience in the global textile industry. Jane’s talk emphasised the urgent need for sustainable practices in fashion, citing her firsthand experience of the industry’s negative environmental impacts. Jane introduced her current research on alternative fabrics from plant and microbial sources, underscoring the potential of natural dyes to reduce the ecological footprint of clothing production. Jane highlighted some of the challenges facing the introduction of natural dyes on an industrial scale, but suggested a new trend for natural dye palettes could galvanise a shift in both consumer attitudes and production processes.

The discussion concluded with a presentation from Jo Eyden from Stitched Up focusing on the  Stretford Community Dye Garden (SCDG), a recent collaboration with Friends of Victoria Park Stretford. Jo gave us a whistlestop introduction to the Stretford Community Dye Garden project, highlighting its potential role in bringing people together and promoting sustainable fashion within local communities. The garden, which is in its first year and is cultivated by volunteers, aims to serve as a communal space for growing dye plants, sharing resources, and experimenting with natural dyeing techniques. Jo emphasised the importance of community involvement in sustainable practices and the potential of such initiatives to foster environmental stewardship.

The four talks introduced diverse perspectives on natural dyes and a range of projects that are putting these techniques into practice. This started a lively discussion with the event audience about the role of natural dyes in supporting sustainable textile production, connecting communities, and enhancing individual well-being. A key theme was the potential of natural dyeing to inspire new ways of understanding and caring for our environment. The interactive discussion underscored the importance of integrating traditional practices with sustainability efforts to encourage deeper thinking about environmental relationships and impacts.

Workshops at WOW Manchester Festival   

Following the success of the online event, we had the exciting opportunity to host a stall and workshops at the Women of the World (WOW) Festival, held at the impressive Factory International Aviva Studios on 25 and 26 May. Jo Eyden and her team showcased the Stretford Community Dye Garden project at a stall in the WOW festival marketplace, and together we organised a series of practical dyeing workshops entitled To Dye For! Led by experienced natural dye artists, Kayleigh Louise Davis and Nell Smith, these sessions introduced members of the public to two techniques – plant hammering and dye bundling. The hands-on workshops provided participants with practical skills and a deeper appreciation for different ways of using plants to create colour and pattern.

Plant hammering, also known as hapa zome involves placing leaves, flowers, and other plant materials onto fabric and then hammering them to transfer the natural pigments. This technique creates beautiful, organic patterns that reflect the unique characteristics of the plants used. During the workshops, participants were guided through the process, from selecting and preparing the plants to enthusiastically hammering the plants onto the fabric. The results were stunning, with each piece of fabric becoming a one-of-a-kind artwork.

Dye bundling, another technique taught at the workshops, involves wrapping fabric around natural dye sources, such as plants or berries, and then steaming or simmering the bundles to release the colours. This method produces rich, layered designs that are vibrant and intriguing. Participants at the workshops were excited to learn about the variety of plants that can be used for dye bundling and experimented with different combinations to achieve unique effects.

The WOW Festival was a bustling hub of activity, and the workshops and stall attracted attendees of all ages who were eager to learn about natural dyeing. Participants were able to try out the techniques, ask questions, and take samples of their work home with them. Their enthusiasm highlights rising interest in sustainable textile processes, and many left the workshops eager to try out more natural dyeing methods in their personal artistic endeavours.

On the second day of the workshop, we had the pleasure of welcoming Nazir Afzal, the Chancellor of the University of Manchester, to our stall at the WOW festival. His visit was a highlight for our team as he expressed his support for our initiatives and the evident impact of the workshops.

Reflections and Future Directions

Both the online talks and hands-on workshops have sparked meaningful conversations about the future of textile production, as well as the potentials of natural dyes for bringing together creativity, sustainability, and community engagement. By drawing on natural dye enthusiasts from different fields, we aimed to start a rich and multifaceted dialogue around natural dyeing, and to seed some interesting, interdisciplinary, future collaborations!

The workshops and festival stall demonstrated that hands-on learning experiences can be powerful tools for raising awareness and inspiring action. What’s more, many participants reported that the process of working with natural dyes was not only creatively fulfilling but also therapeutic. By introducing participants to these fun and accessible natural dye techniques, we hope to have prompted participants to think more deeply about sustainable textile practices and to become curious about creative encounters with plants and environments.

Significantly, the discussions that emerged from these events have demonstrated that natural dyeing is more than just a potential sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes; it is a practice that can foster community connections, enhance individual well-being, and inspire new ways of working together to care for local environments.

Looking ahead, we are eager to continue exploring the potentials and futures of natural dyeing. Plans are already underway for more workshops, community dye garden projects, online resources and further collaborations between researchers, communities and textile artists.

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